I Made it to Pavones, Finally.

The first heard time I heard of this magical place was 26 years ago. I had just landed in Costa Rica and swiftly learned how to shortboard.

I met Victor out in the sea — a dreadlocked Tico with serious surfing finesse. The other fellow in our make-shift crew was a Canadian who worked seasonally and preferred his booze over barrels.

I heard whispers of the longest left-hand wave in the world. If you’re lucky you can ride the open face for over 1km. We’re talking minutes ins surf time here.

And today was the day. I road the longest wave of my life in Pavones. It was easy. Dare I say it may even have looked graceful.

Lou, an uber-tanned heavily tattooed Brasileira and a few lucky ducks were in heaven alongside me. One local had a whistle around his neck and would toot whenever he finished a long ride. At first, I thought it was a lifeguard warning me of the rocks (but there are no lifeguards until you get to Panama.)

There is an understanding. Its root is awe.

I told Lou how fond I am of this place. She agreed and asked me what specifically makes it so.

“The surroundings, the natural natural beauty,’ ’ I remarked.

“And the vibe too”, I added.

She smiled in agreement. “The energy is like the opposite of Santa Teresa.”

If you’ve never heard of Santa Teresa — it was dubbed the new Tulum by the New York Times. In 2015. So you can imagine how crowded and crude it can be as we roll into 2022.

I digress. After that superwave, I paddled back out sporting a grin. And I thought to myself…

dreams do come true.

I’m experimenting with automatic writing. Each morning I write freely and blindly and in the evening I edit and publish This is part two of the experiment.