Shark in the Surf

I was getting pummeled by waves. To my surprise, I found a way to grab the rail on lefts. On rights, I kept missing the face and often eating shit. Annoyed, I paddled back up into the lineup.

And that’s when I saw it. ‘It’ being a shark. The guy wasn’t all that big but frightening enough. I caught a few more waves (what was I thinking!?) and have just Googled ‘how not to get eaten by a shark.’ Turns out I was surfing near a river mouth at dawn — a ripe combo for the predators.

I knew that more people die from taking selfies than shark attacks. I didn’t know that more people also lose their lives getting knocked on the noggin’ by a coconut. And I also had no clue that half of all shark attacks happen in Florida. I feel better now.

And I am grateful to avoid getting chomped today.

Every day is a blessing.