Syncing to the Sea

After 25 years of surfing, I got barrelled today.

Yeah, it took a long time. Too long for sure. I had so many close calls. Countless waves closed out on me just as I was entering the tube. Other times I was a wee bit ahead of the peeling wave.

Crowds were turning up. I was ravenous for a wave of my own. When it finally came I nearly bailed dropping in. Balancing on one foot I was determined to make it to the face. My mishap turned into a gift.

Water curled over my head. My timing was perfect. And this could only be an act of God.

Magical waves.

I’ve tried to fight them. I never win.

Their force…constantly a source of awe.
Their form…regularly in flux.
Their fate…inevitable as they kiss the beach.

Waves do not discriminate. They’ll take you up to heaven and drop you down to hell.

Often I think of waves for what they really are — walls of energy traversing our oceans. A pod of dolphins may surf the same wave that I do.

Hesitate, and pay the price.

Commit, and ride the wave of your life.

When you’re in sync with the sea there’s just one thing you need to do: paddle back out.

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